Vitamin A in Skin Care products

What is vitamin A and when and who should use it ? In my opinion Vitamin A should be a integral component in any modern day active skin care program.

Vitamin A was first used to treat acne (1985) as it increases exfoliation of skin cells and increases cell turnover. It was found to have the additional benefits of improving the skin's elasticity tone and texture as well as smoothing the skin's surface and improving fine lines and wrinkles. Tretinoin in fact is the only chemical to date to receive FDA approval for anti-aging and anti-sun damage properties.

The first and most well known of the vitamin A derivative creams was tretinoin. Tretinoin also known as All-trans-retinoic acid (ATRA) is a natural occurring derivative of vitamin A (retinol). Retinoids such as tretinoin are important regulators of cell reproduction, proliferation and differentiation and are now used to treat acne as well as photodamaged skin. Tretinoin is found in Retin A, Tazorac, Renova and Avita. It is also in many new versions combined with microsphere technology for greater penetration (Retin A micro). We recommend Obagi Tretinoin. It has also been combined with other agents either antibiotics (Ziana) or adapelene (Differin) which makes the skin less photosensitive.

It is also used effectivleyin programs in conjunction with hydroquinone for lightening the skin (Obagi Nu Derm). Most of these are available by prescription. While there is no debate whether tretinoin improves the characteristics of aging skin over time, its use is often associated with unwelcome side effects such as irritation, peeling, redness and sun sensitivity.

There are different metabolites of vitamin A now available such as retinol, retinyl palmitate in over the counter preparations. Retinol is considered to be 20 times less potent than retinoic acid and thus need to be present in higher quantities than tretinoin in order to be effective. Once this is achieved, similar results can be obtained without the irritating side effects. The interesting thing is that ALL of these must be converted to retinaldehyde and then all-trans retinoic acid within the skin to be effective. Which brings us to my one of my recommendations in this category:  Avene (Paris) has introduced Retrinal HAF. This product contains Retinaldehyde, which is the immediate precursor to Retinoic Acid. (The active ingredient in Retin A, Tazorac, and Tretinoin). Retinoic Acid is known to reduce the appearance of visible deep lines and wrinkles as staed above as well as actually preventing collagen loss. It is also known to benefit the CD44 production, which is the receptor for Hyaluronic Acid. Hyaluronic Acid binds with water thereby plumping, or hydrating the area it is in. It is the primary ingredient in dermal fillers such as Restylane, Juvederm and Perlane, and it hydrates skin beautifully when used as a topical agent. Fragmented Hyaluronic Acid (HAF) when sized to its optimum length has an enhanced firming effect. When used together, Retinaldehyde and HAF have a synergistic action and further demonstrate reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

What can you really expect from this product? - It will diminish the visible depth of fine lines and deeper wrinkles - It will reduce roughness and blotchiness - It will even out skin tone - It will increase hydration of the skin increasing skin firmness and hydration. For those with a more oily or acne prone complexion consider alternating with Diacneal which is Retinaldehyde mixed with a glycolic acid.