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This decade has brought a new face to sunscreens and sunblocks with many new options and hundreds of choices. Sunscreens and sunblocks are probably the most effective product that you can use on your skin that will effectively retard premature aging as well as protect you from skin cancer.
The number one cause of aging has been shown to be the damaging UV radiation that comes from the sun. UV radiation causes photoaging and results in loss of elasticity of the skin due to free radical damage. UV radiation comes in different wavelengths. None of these are visible to the human eye. While visible light is 400 to 760 NM, UVA is below at 260 and 320 to 400 NM. UVB is from 290 to 320 NM.Until recently many of the sunscreens by selectively targeting only the UVB rays. This still allows other rays such as UVA to reach the skin. UVA rays are also harmful and responsible for skin aging and skin cancer. Therefore it is important to have a sunscreen that blocks both UVA and UVB rays.
There is a new proposed regulation before the FDA that identifies the rating system for UVA sunscreens products on a scale of one to four stars. One star would represent the low UVA protection, two stars would represent represent medium protection, three stars higher and finally four stars the very highest UVA protection in over the counter protection. If a sunscreen does not at least carry a one star protection from UVA the FDA proposes the product must carry “no UVA protection” on the front label near the SPF value.
Presently we only have SPF (Sun Protection Factor) which is based on UVB rays. So what is the difference between sunscreens and sunblocks? They are often used interchangeably but they are different.
A sunscreen is a product that actually inactivated the UV light and makes it less damaging to the tissue. Sunblocks on the other hand act as a physical blocker or shield and do not let the UV rays reach the target tissue at all. There is another division in sunscreens. There are organic (chemical) and inorganic (physical) sunscreens.
Organic does not mean it is a sunscreen that is naturally produced, rather it simply means it is composed of carbon and hydrogen. Organic sunscreens are absorbed into the skin to some extent. Most organic sunscreens block only UVB rays. The exception is Avobenzone (Parsol) which blocks UVA. They work by absorbing the radiation (light energy) and then release it in the form of heat energy (infrared). Organics get rid of UV by creating free radicals. Ant oxidants added to the sunscreen preparation or used separately can help stop free radical damage.
Inorganic sunscreens (physical blocks) contain inert microscopic solid and particulate minerals. The most common are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Zinc oxide is considered very safe and blocks more UVB than any other single ingredient. Titanium Dioxide blocks some UVA and most UVB. Both ingredients lie on top of the skin and are not absorbed. They work by reflecting and refracting the UVA and UVB rays. They do not create the opportunity for free radical scavengers because they are not absorbed into the body. So there is your update on sunscreens.
UVB Sunscreens are from 260 to 320NM. They may include PABA, Ocinoxate, Homosalate, Cinoxate, Aminobenzoic Acid, Trolamine Salicylate, Ensulizole and Octisalate.
UVA Sunscreens are from 260NM to 400 NM. They contain any of the following ingredients: Oxybenzone (UVA and UVB) Avobenzone or Parasol, Benzophenone, Meradimate, Sulisobensone, Dioxybenzone, or Methyl Anthtanitate and the newest Mexoryl. (Anthelios)
Physical Blockers are from 290 up to 1800NM. These contain Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxide and Zinc Oxide. (Obagi Nu Derm Sun Block). Please read the article on how to read a product label. This will help you decipher what are the active ingredients in the product.
Finally there are the new and upcoming powdered sunscreens that offer better absorption with nanotechnology. The active ingredients used to formulate powder sunscreens are zinc and ititanium dioxide. Nanotechnology offers a new medium for applying sunscreens. It is being introduced to minimize the drawbacks currently associated with traditional sunscreens. This medium is powder. Powder properly formulated is inert and is not absorbed into the skin. it does not produce free radical damage. Carriers like iron oxide, oat, rice mica, silicone and talc can be use as inactive ingredients. These micronized minerals using nanotechnology have actally been around since the 1970's but were underused, mess,y and often only in colored products. The new generation of powder sunscreens uses a powder so fine that each particle is smaller than awavelength of visible light. When spread on the skin they will reflect and refract almost all dangerous UV rays. They will do this from the surface of the skin so this will prevent free radical damage. Colorescience offers a full spectrum SPF 30 powder sunscreen called Forgettable.
Sunscreens of today may contain other factors that compliment the SPF factor. Studies have provided us with strong evidence that certain vitamins can protect the body cells and tissues from damage caused by enviromental stress (UV radiation and chemical pollutants). Others can provide the proper enviroment for the corrction of damage inflicted on skin hair and nails as result of aging and photoaging. Of particular interest in cosmetics are vitamins A, E, C, pro-vitamin B5 (anthenol) and their derivatives. Please read the article on antioxidants for more information.
While typical sunscreens offer no protection against free radical damage, the addition of antioxidants could significantly reduce the generation of free radicals. In a recent study, vitamin C was by far the best quencher. There are natural enzymes in your skin that form a reservoir of vitamin C. The best results were achieved after multiple applications of the antioxidants where a significant amount of vitamin C accumulated in the skin. Free radicals that are generated will be quenched by the vitamin C stored in the skin. Studies also indicate the exposure to UVA and UVB radiation sharply reduces the level of vitamin E in the skin. Topical appliction of 5% vitamin E acetate cream over a period of 10 days increased the level of vitamin E (tocopherol) five fold, thus providing increased protection to the skin. Reseach has shown that taking 30mg of beta-carotene a day protects against the supression of the immune system by UVA rays. Other suggestions are to take daily doses of 3 grams or more of vitamin C, 88 IU of vitamin E and 200 micrograms of selenium (l-selenomethionine). Vitamin C and E also protect against cataract formation.
Research also supports that taking vitamin C and anti-oxidants internally can also have the benefit of blocking free radicals in the skin, whether taken in the vitamin C medium or just eating fruits and vegetables high in C, E and other anti-oxidants. Green tea is also another good source of anti-oxidants but has higher levels when used in the loose leaf form.
Waterproof or not, a sunscreen needs to be applied every two hours or its effect will diminish. Remember a teaspoon of product to cover the face is suggested to achieve full effect.
So finally my favorites are
- Anthelios by La Roche-Posay which contains Mexoryl, the most effective FDA approved organic filter designed to protect against short UVA rays (max absoption 344 NM) with high photostability. This means it will maintain a higher UVA protection longer and will not degrade as quickly as other UVA protectors when exposed to the sun.
- Obagi NuDerm Sun Block
- Sunforgettable SPF 30 Powder Sunscreen by Colorescience.
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